This little hike doesn’t have much of a wow factor, but it does offer pleasant scenery that’s especially dramatic in the spring and fall seasons. Even the drive to the trail entrance is gorgeous. Plus, this trip ends with a trip to an onsen. What could get better than that?

Getting There

Shiraiwa Falls is just two hours from Tokyo by public transit and an hour, 20-minute drive by car—conveniently close compared to other hikes in Japan. I recommend driving as there are a few parking spots located right next to the trail head. Just put Shiraiwataki Bus Stop in your GPS and start driving.

Getting there by public transit isn’t too bad either but I highly recommend planning your trip at least one day in advance and arriving on time to each transfer as the last bus you take only comes every hour. Take the train to Musashi-Itsukaichi Station. Now, here’s where it gets tricky so I recommend giving yourself time to find the bus. As soon as you exit the station, there will be a few bus stops. There may be a couple of bus options you can take, but we took the bus to Tsurutsuru Onsen. It’s the stop at the very end, and the bus that picks you up is unique from the others as it looks like an old train. Sit on the left side of the bus so you can enjoy the scenic views during the drive. Get off at the second-to-last stop at Shiraiwataki. Listen carefully as the stops are not translated in English. 

Shiraiwa Falls Trail

The bus conveniently drops you off in front of the trailhead. What starts off as a paved road quickly turns into a trail. A couple of hiking signs will ensure you’re going the right way. Walk up a flight of stairs and a few minutes later, come upon the first impressive waterfall. There are 18 waterfalls in total! Keep walking and you’ll eventually hit a road. Walk straight across the road to continue the hike.

After walking through a forest that looks like something out of Lord of the Rings, you’ll reach a clearing with vast views of the neighboring mountains. The ridgeline curves around to partially encircle the valley below. Follow the hiking signs for Mount Hinode and be on the lookout for deer. We saw a huge one! After curving around the valley and reaching Mount Hinode, follow the signs for Tsurutsuru Onsen. The hiragana and kanji on the signs will look something like this: つるつる温泉. The trail at this point will start descending back into town and eventually lead you back to the road.

Tsurutsuru Onsen

There’s nothing like a nice dip in an onsen after a long hike, and this trail conveniently ends a short 10-minute walk from Tsurutsuru Onsen—one of the few onsens in Japan that accepts tattooed guests. The onsen offers two indoor baths and one outdoor bath.